Marie Antoinette's Jewels on Display at the V&A in London
The Victoria & Albert Museum in London is currently showcasing a captivating exhibition titled 'Marie Antoinette Style', which delves into the life and influence of the iconic Austrian archduchess-turned-French queen. This exhibition offers a unique opportunity to explore the stylistic choices and decorative arts legacy of Marie Antoinette, featuring a diverse collection of objects, including pieces genuinely owned by her, items from her contemporaries, and those inspired by her enduring impact.
The exhibition's curator, Sarah Grant, highlights the multifaceted nature of Marie Antoinette's legacy: "Marie Antoinette's name evokes both excess and exquisite beauty. Her influence on European taste and fashion during her reign was profound, creating a style that continues to captivate and inspire. Her story has been retold and adapted by each generation, maintaining its allure and relevance."
Patricia Treble, a Canadian journalist and the driving force behind the Write Royalty Substack newsletter (https://writeroyalty.substack.com/), recently visited the V&A to witness the Cartier exhibition and 'Marie Antoinette Style'. She generously shared her insights and images, shedding light on the jewelry pieces associated with Marie Antoinette.
One of the key pieces on display is a replica of the Böhmer et Bassange necklace, which played a significant role in the infamous Affair of the Necklace. This necklace, commissioned by Louis XIV in 1772, was dismantled and no longer exists. The replica, crafted in 1960 by Albert Guerrin and Paulette Laubie, captures the essence of the original design.
Marie Antoinette's involvement in the Affair of the Necklace has been somewhat exaggerated in history. While she was a minor player, the scandal's narrative often revolves around her decadence. The affair's impact on public perception was profound, despite her lack of direct involvement in the transactions. The necklace's story is intertwined with the Dukes of Sutherland, who acquired some of its diamonds. A bandeau-style tiara, adorned with these diamonds, was worn by Harriet, Duchess of Sutherland, at the coronation of Queen Victoria, where she served as Mistress of the Robes.
Another piece, a diamond négligé, is believed to have been crafted from diamonds originally part of the Böhmer et Bassange necklace. This necklace, with its rows and tassels design, was draped around the wearer's neck, adding a touch of elegance. It was once owned by the Marquesses of Anglesey and graced several British royal coronations. In 2024, the Anglesey necklace was sold at Sotheby's in Geneva for $4.8 million, showcasing the enduring value of Marie Antoinette's jewelry.
Marie Antoinette's personal jewelry collection also includes a diamond and pearl drop pendant and a diamond bow brooch, both of which were passed down through her surviving daughter and the Bourbon-Parma relatives. The classic diamond ribbon brooch, crafted in France after her marriage to Louis XVI, was one of the jewels spirited out of the country before the revolution. It was later presented to their daughter, Madame Royale, and eventually became part of the private collection of the Duchess of Parma and the Count of Chambord, members of the extended Bourbon-Parma family.
The family's ownership of these jewels spanned over a century. During this period, a yellow diamond pendant was added to the bow brooch. In 2018, the jewel was sold at auction by Sotheby's for over $2 million and is now part of a private collection. Similarly, Marie Antoinette's pearl pendant, hidden in Belgium during the revolution and presented to Madame Royale, was bequeathed to the Bourbon-Parmas. It was sold by Sotheby's in 2018 for over $36 million and is now part of the collection at the museum founded by the jewelry-collecting billionaire, Heidi Horten, in Austria.
Patricia Treble's insights into 'Marie Antoinette Style' offer a personal and captivating glimpse into the exhibition. Her Substack newsletter, Write Royalty (https://writeroyalty.substack.com/), is a treasure trove of royal news and insights. For those fortunate enough to visit the V&A in person, the exhibition runs until March 2026, and tickets are available at https://www.vam.ac.uk/exhibitions/marie-antoinette?srsltid=AfmBOootW7QCnEsKI0EgQH78NVB328k9BVyPIzc0_cpDmK3mOrBZc7.
